Istria is one of Croatia’s most diverse regions: along the coast, historic port towns such as Rovinj, Pula and Poreč beckon with their Venetian charm and crystal-clear sea, whilst the hinterland offers vineyards, olive groves and medieval villages perched on hilltops. For those wishing to combine a beach holiday with fine dining, nature and culture, Istria is the ideal destination.
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Photo: Panoramic view of Rovinj’s old town and the Adriatic Sea.
Travelling from Switzerland: Many travellers drive to Istria via Italy – this is usually the quickest route. Alternatively, you can fly to Pula, Rijeka, Trieste or Ljubljana, and then continue your journey by hire car or transfer.
Best time to visit: June to September are particularly good for beach holidays, when the sea is warm and the coast is bustling with life until late in the evening. Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) are particularly pleasant: fewer crowds and ideal weather for cycling, walking and sightseeing. Autumn is also the peak season for white truffles – perfect for delightful excursions into the hinterland.
Getting around: A hire car makes it easy to combine coastal towns with the hinterland – for example, the beach in the morning and a truffle-themed dinner in a hilltop village in the evening. In towns such as Rovinj or Poreč, it’s best to park outside the old town and get around on foot or by bike.
Currency & payments: The euro is the currency in Croatia. Card payments are common in hotels, restaurants and larger shops, but it’s handy to have some cash for smaller konobas, markets or farm shops. The Swiss Bankers Travel Card is particularly convenient: it allows you to pay flexibly whilst you’re there and, if needed, withdraw euros from cash machines. If you prefer to carry cash, it’s best to order euros in advance of your trip via the Swiss Bankers banknote delivery service and have the notes delivered directly to your home.
Choosing accommodation: If swimming is your main priority, coastal towns such as Rovinj, Poreč or Rabac are ideal. For those seeking peace and quiet, agrotourism establishments and small guesthouses in the hinterland offer plenty of charm, often with a swimming pool and tastings of their own wine or olive oil. You’ll find a selection of suitable hotels and accommodation on our Travel Deals page.
Beach and sun tips: As many beaches are pebbly or rocky, it’s worth bringing water shoes. Sun protection (hat, sun cream, light clothing) is essential in summer – the sun on the Adriatic is more intense than in Switzerland.
One holiday resort follows another along the Istrian coast – each with its own unique atmosphere, but all offering stunning sea views, the charm of old towns and that quintessential Mediterranean way of life.
Just half an hour’s drive from coastal towns such as Poreč or Novigrad, the Istrian hinterland begins, with its rolling hills, vineyards, oak forests and olive groves. The road winds its way up to Motovun, where you can park your car below the town walls and continue on foot. At the top, a circular walk along the town walls awaits, offering sweeping views over the Mirna Valley, the truffle forests and the vineyards – ideal for a short stroll and taking photos.
You can reach Grožnjan via a narrow scenic road. The village is smaller but very atmospheric: the narrow streets are lined with one artist’s studio after another, and in summer you can often hear live music coming from courtyards and small squares. Another worthwhile stop is Kotli – a small, almost fairy-tale-like village with waterfalls, natural rock pools and ancient stone ruins along the riverbed. After a stroll through this natural setting, you can drive further up to Hum, which calls itself the ‘smallest town in the world’. The tiny, walled village essentially consists of a single alleyway, a small square, a church and stone houses.
Those who wish to experience the landscape of green Istria more actively can follow sections of the former Parenzana railway line, for example between Livade and Motovun. The route is well suited to easy cycle rides or walks, passing through fields, woods and small villages, and offering frequent views of the hilltop towns. This way, you’ll get to know the Istrian hinterland not just from a car, but right in the heart of it.
Photo: Grožnjan from a bird’s-eye view – the artists’ village in green Istria.
In the Istrian hinterland, a holiday quickly turns into a culinary journey. The region’s most important truffle-growing area lies around Motovun and the village of Livade – known as the truffle capital of Istria. In the woods of the Mirna Valley, black truffles and – particularly in autumn – white truffles are found, which take centre stage in many konobas and restaurants: served over homemade fuži pasta, in creamy sauces or as part of a multi-course tasting menu. Truffle enthusiasts will be particularly spoilt for choice in Livade, with opportunities such as tastings and seasonal truffle menus. Those who want to experience truffles beyond the dining table can take part in a guided truffle hunt in the woods around Motovun and watch as specially trained dogs track down the tubers in the leaf litter.
The Istrian hinterland is also ideal for wine lovers. In north-western Istria, around Momjan and Buje, lie well-known wineries such as Kozlović, Kabola and Clai; further south, it’s worth making a detour to the Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery near Bale. Many of these wineries offer tastings of Malvazija (white) and Teran (red), often paired with cheese, prosciutto and homemade bread – usually with sweeping views over vineyards and hills.
For olive oil enthusiasts, a visit to and around Vodnjan is highly recommended, where producers such as Chiavalon and Brist offer guided tours and tastings of extra virgin olive oils. In Pula, too, visitors can learn more about cultivation, processing and differences in quality at the House of Istrian Olive Oil, and sample a variety of oils.
Photo: Panoramic view of the hilltop town of Motovun in green Istria.
Istria offers accommodation to suit almost every taste – from designer hotels by the sea to peaceful vineyards in the hinterland or comfortable campsites right on the Adriatic coast.
You’ll find a selection of suitable hotels, resorts and other accommodation on our Travel Deals page – where you’ll regularly discover attractive offers.
Istria brings together, within a compact area, many of the things that make a Mediterranean holiday special: charming coastal towns, crystal-clear bathing bays, a green hinterland dotted with hilltop villages, truffles, wine and olive groves. Thanks to the short distances involved, it’s easy to combine the sea, culture and fine dining – a swim in the morning, a stroll through the old town in the afternoon, and an evening of indulgence in the hinterland. Whether for a long weekend or a longer summer holiday, Istria is a versatile destination for couples, families and connoisseurs alike.